ARPEPE is a winery located in Sondrio, the capital of the Valtellina region, in northern Lombardy. Certainly one of the best producers in the region, its reputation has long since crossed the borders of Valtellina. ARPEPE is the diminutive of Arturo Pelizzatti Perego, who in 1984 decided to recreate the family estate that had been partially broken up as a result of an inheritance. Arturo’s family had been in the wine business since the mid-19th century and it was his grandfather who dug the cellar in the rock face below the vineyard. ARPEPE is now run by Arturo’s children: Isabella, Emanuele and Guido.
ARPEPE’s vineyard is spread over about 12 hectares in the heart of the Sassella area. The work in the vineyard as well as the harvest can only be done by hand. No mechanization is possible due to the configuration of the sloping terraces on which the vineyard rests. The production reaches only about 60,000 bottles per year. Isabella, a trained oenologist, is the cellar master. Emmanuele, a surveyor, is in charge of the vineyards. Guido is in charge of the administration of the estate.
J’ai découvert ARPEPE un peu par hasard en ouvrant une bouteille de leur Rosso di Valtellina à Montréal. C’est alors que je me suis renseigné sur le domaine et comme le hasard est bien fait, j’avais un voyage de prévu en Italie à Milan et j’ai donc décidé d’aller visiter le domaine. J’ai eu la chance d’être reçu par la très charmante Isabella, qui m’a ouvert les portes du domaine et a passé beaucoup de temps avec moi pour parler de ses vins et de la beauté de la région dans laquelle elle vit. J’ai également eu l’occasion de boire du très bon vin!
All ARPEPE wines are made from nebbiolo, called chiavennasca in Valtellina, and fermented only with indigenous yeasts. These nebbiolos are not very comparable with their Piedmont neighbors, such as Barolo, Barbaresco and Langhe. Valtellina nebbiolos are often described as lighter, more delicate and less tannic than their Piedmontese cousins. A word of advice when tasting a Valtellina wine, use larger glasses (burgundy style), to allow them to breathe a little, they will be all the better for it!
The Wines
- Rosso di Valtellina D.O.C., made only with nebbiolo (the D.O.C. allows the use of up to 10% of other grape varieties), is a wine that one would like to drink every day. Grapes from the municipalities of Sondrio and Montagna in Valtellina. Maceration in oak barrels, then aged for 12 months in oak barrels of 50 hl, cement vats and then rested for 6 months in the bottle before marketing. This 2013 vintage is very floral (rose) and has good acidity. It will be the ideal companion of a simple and authentic cuisine. Serve slightly chilled. 13.50 euros per bottle at the estate.
- Grumello Rocca De Piro, D.O.C.G. Valtellina Superiore. As its name suggests, it comes from the Grumello area. 100% nebbiolo. Macerated in oak barrels, then aged for 2 years in oak barrels of 50 hl, stainless steel tanks and then rested for 12 months in the bottle.
- Sassella Stella Retica, D.O.C.G. Valtellina Superiore Sassella. 100% nebbiolo. Fermented and aged for 2 years in large oak and chestnut tuns, then rested for at least 12 months in bottle. This 2011 vintage has cherry notes, but also a slightly animal side with leather notes, which fade with aeration. Good acidity too (quite typical of the nebbiolos of the region). 20 euros per bottle.
- Inferno Fiamme Antiche, D.O.C.G. Valtellina Superiore Inferno. It comes from the area of Inferno (reputed to be the hottest in the region, hence the name), in the municipality of Poggiridenti.100% nebbiolo. Maceration in oak barrels, then rest for at least 2 years in oak barrels of 50 hl, cement vats and at least 12 months in bottle.
- Il Pettirosso, in I.G.T. Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio. The grapes come from both Sassella and Grumello. Produced only in the best years. 100% nebbiolo. Long maceration and then aged for 4 years in large oak and chestnut barrels, then rested for at least three years in the bottle.
- Grumello Buon Consiglio, D.O.C.G. Valtellina Superiore Grumello. 100% nebbiolo. Maceration in oak barrels, then aged for 4 years in 50 hl oak barrels, cement vats, then rested for at least three years in bottle.
Sassella Rocce Rosse, D.O.C.G. Valtellina Superiore Sassella. 100% nebbiolo. Macerated in oak barrels, then aged for 4 years in 50 hl oak barrels, cement vats, then rested for at least three years in bottle. I tasted the 2005 vintage. It is quite surprising to see how the color of nebbiolo hardly changes with age. Nebbiolo is a lightly colored grape, but its color changes little or not at all with age. Isabelle also uncorked a 1997 vintage and the observation was the same. Still a lot of fruit on the nose. Notes of cherry, kirsch, but also spices like tobacco and clove. Very elegant. The proof that nebbiolos, like pinot noirs, have a great capacity to age beautifully. 35 euros per bottle. - Sassella Vigna Regina. Described by ARPEPE itself as the grand cru of the estate. 100% nebbiolo. Macerated in oak barrels, then aged for 4 years in 50 hl oak and chestnut barrels, cement vats, then rested for at least three years in bottle.
Sassella Ultimi Raggi, D.O.C.G. Valtellina Superiore Sassella. Only produced in the best years, it is a late harvest where part of the grapes are left to dry on the vine. The grapes come from a vineyard in the Sassella area at an altitude of 600 meters. This results in a wine with a higher alcohol content. 100% nebbiolo. Maceration in oak barrels, then aged for 4 years in 50 hl oak barrels, cement vats, then rested for at least three years in the bottle. This 2007 vintage has notes of rose, red fruits and exotic spices. There is obviously more alcohol on the nose and the tannins are rather marked, but what a length! To be enjoyed with game or strong cheeses. Very nice wine. 40 euros per bottle.
2014 was a catastrophic year weather-wise in Valtellina. So much so that ARPEPE decided to produce only its Rosso di Valtellina for this vintage. This is the philosophy of the house, which prefers to make only a rosso, but of quality, rather than marketing different vintages that would not reach the standards of excellence of the estate. Fortunately, the 2015 harvest went perfectly and suggests an excellent vintage.
If you are visiting Northern Italy and are a wine lover, I can’t recommend enough a trip to Valtellina. And if so, a visit to ARPEPE is a MUST. You will be received with great kindness and you will discover superb vintages. Nebbiolo lovers are in for a treat!
To Visit the Winery:
Via Buon Consiglio, 4
23100 Sondrio, Italy
Tel +39.0342.214120
info@arpepe.com
www.arpepe.com
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