The wines of Valtellina are still very little known. However, they are a delight for nebbiolo lovers and have nothing to envy in terms of quality to their more famous counterparts such as barolos and barbarescos. The region’s beautiful alpine scenery and rich history and gastronomy are all reasons to learn more about this vineyard shaped by man for centuries.
Geographical situation
The Valtellina region is located in the extreme north of Lombardy, near the Swiss border. It has the particularity of being the only alpine river valley oriented from east to west. The Adda River, which flows through the Valtellina, flows into Lake Como to the west. The small town of Sondrio is the main municipality of the area. A wine tour in Valtellina is easily possible from Milan (a little less than two hours drive), from the majestic lakes of Lombardy (Como or Garda), and even from southern Switzerland (Lugano or St. Moritz).
A bit of History
Valtellina is a region where wine has been made for over 2000 years. Long before the Romans, the Etruscans were already cultivating vines here. Much later, Leonardo da Vinci referred to the area in his writings as an area producing powerful and intoxicating wines. Until the beginning of the 19th century, the area was under Swiss influence and the red wines produced here were mostly exported to the northern neighbor, which then produced mainly white wine. Over time, winegrowers discovered that grapes matured at higher altitudes, and so they planted the vines higher and higher, in terraces, shaping the landscapes of the region. Today, the winegrowers of Valtellina are actively lobbying for their vineyards to be recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Wine Appellations
In the Valtellina region there is one IGT, Retiche di Sondrio, one DOC, Rosso di Valtellina and two DOCG, Valtellina Superiore and Sforzato di Valtellina. Wines from the Rosso di Valtellina appellation must be at least 80% nebbiolo, to which may be added a 20% of other grape varieties such as pinot noir, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, rossola, brugnola or pignola. The rosso grapes are most often grown in vineyards near the Adda River, which are also the lowest in altitude. They are also often made from young vines.
Wines of the Valtellina superiore appellation must contain at least 90% nebbiolo and must be aged for at least 24 months in barrels. Riserva wines must be aged for at least 36 months. The wines of this appellation come from 5 vineyards: Grumello, Inferno, Maroggia, Sassella, and Valgella.
Sforzato di Valtellina is a wine made from raisined grapes. The drying process, called apassimento, is the same as that used in the Veneto region for the production of Amarone della Valpolicella. The grapes, coming from the highest vineyards in altitude, must undergo a minimum drying period of 110 days. Around the end of January, they will have lost between 35 and 40% of their weight and will have concentrated in sugars. They are then fermented and aged for a minimum of 20 months in barrels. Their minimum alcohol content before marketing must reach 14%.
Nebbiolo: The King of Valtellina Grapes
The wines of Valtellina are for the vast majority composed of nebbiolo, more commonly called Chiavennasca in the region. Nebbiolo is the grape variety par excellence of Piedmont, notably of the famous Barbaresco, Barolo and Langhe wines, but it is perfectly adapted to the Valtellina region in Lombardy. In Piedmont, it also takes on other names depending on the region: in Carema or Valle d’Aosta, it is called picotèner, in Ghemme and Gattinara it is better known as spanna.
Its name probably comes from the Italian nebbia, which means fog. When harvested between September and October, it is not uncommon for morning fog to appear in the hills of Piedmont. Nebbiolo wines are often very tannic, with very high acidity levels, which require time for the wine to mellow and reveal its characteristic notes of rose, dried fruit and exotic spices. Nebbiolo is also a grape variety with a very characteristic pale red color, almost translucent, somewhat reminiscent of pinot noir. The two varieties are often compared to each other. In addition to the color, the difficulty of understanding these two varieties, their longevity, and the propensity to make great wines indeed pushes the comparison.
Nebbiolo in the Valtellina region has developed a very different identity from its Piedmontese cousin. While both produce very tannic wines and share the same propensity to age beautifully, the barolos are known for their aromatic power. The great wines of Valtellina, in my experience, are perhaps less powerful, but have a more feminine, delicate and elegant side.
Wineries Recommended
Here is a list, of course, not complete, of good producers of the area of Valtellina (and in brackets one of their wines to be discovered):
– Alberto Marsetti, Valtellina Superiore Le Prudenze, marsetti.it
– Aldo Rainoldi, Valtellina Sfursat Fruttaio Ca’ Rizzieri, rainoldi.com
– Arpepe, Valtellina Superiore Sassella Rocce Rosse, arpepe.com
– Dirupi, Valtellina Superiore Dirupi Riserva, dirupi.com
– Mamete Prevostini, Valtellina Superiore Sassella Sommarovina, mameteprevostini.com
– Nino Negri, 5 Stelle Sfursat di Valtellina, ninonegri.net
– Plozza, IGT Valtellina Numero Uno, plozza.com
– Sandro Fay, Sforzato di Valtellina, Ronco del Picchio, vinifay.it
– Triacca, Sforzato di Valtellina San Domenico, triaccavini.eu
To know more about Valtellina wines
If you want to learn more about the superb wines of Valtellina, you can of course visit the website of the Consortium for the Protection of Valtellina Wines : vinidivaltellina.it.
For those who like to walk, an original way to discover the beautiful terraced vineyards of the area is to follow the paths of the Via dei Terrazzamenti, a hiking trail of about 70 kilometers, which connects the towns of Morbegno and Tirano : distrettoculturalevaltellina.mobi/via-terrazzamenti
The Valtellina wine route can also be easily discovered by bicycle if you wish to enjoy the surrounding landscapes in a different way than from your car : stradavinivaltellina.com.
Finally, if you unfortunately have little time to discover the splendid wines of the region, a stop is in order. Go directly to Il Tabernario – Enoteca delle Alpi in Sondrio. This is both a wine bar and a wine shop. The place also houses a beautiful cellar where tastings are organized on occasion. The friendly owner, Gabriele, will advise you and help you discover the wine pleasures of the Valtellina.
Il Tabernario – Enoteca delle Alpi
Via Zara, 2, 23100 Sondrio SO
+39 0342 053040
enotecadellealpi.it
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