Azienda Agricola Fay is located in the village of San Giacomo di Teglio, in the region of Valtellina, in the north of Lombardy, near the border with Switzerland. Valtellina is a mountainous region that hosts the largest terraced vineyard in Italy. The king grape variety is nebbiolo, like its Piedmontese neighbor, but it is better known locally as chiavennasca.
For a very long time, the region was under Swiss influence, and most of the red wine produced was exported to the Swiss neighbor. The Swiss, who at the time produced mostly white wine, came to the Valtellina to buy red wine. This is the historical reason why the region produces little or no white wine. The other explanation is that the nebbiolo found here an ideal soil and climate to make great wines.
In 1973 Sandro Fay decided to structure the small family estate Azienda Agricola Fay. In the following years, he expanded it little by little. His children, Marco and Elena, took over the reins of the estate in 1998. The vineyard of Agricola Fay is mainly located in the sub-appellation Valgella, which is part of the DOCG Valtellina Superiore. It is spread over more than 14 hectares at an altitude varying between 500 and 900 meters. The soils are mostly sandy with some loam.
How to explain the presence of sand in mountainous soils? The terraces where the vines were planted were built by man. The stones, as well as the soil, were brought from the banks of the river Adda, which flows below the Valtellina valley. This explains the predominance of sand in the soil.
I was lucky enough to be welcomed by Elena during a recent visit to the region and to taste several wines from the estate.
– The rosso di Valtellina, the entry-level wine of the estate. Composed of 90% nebbiolo and 10% merlot, brugnola, rossola and pignola. Fermentation and aging in stainless steel tanks.
– Costa Bassa, in DOCG Valtellina Superiore, 100% nebbiolo (Chiavennasca). Fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged for 12 months in huge oak barrels. Notes of rose and black fruits. 10 euros at the estate.
– La Faya, from a one hectare plot replanted in 1997. The vineyard, located at an altitude of 550 meters, is near Carteria, a small hamlet in the municipality of Teglio. Blend of 45% nebbiolo, 40% merlot and 15% syrah. Fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged for 12 months in barrels. Very charming nose of black fruits. Darker color due to the presence of merlot and syrah. 14,50 euros.
– Il Glicine, from a one hectare plot in DOCG Valtellina Superiore Sassella. Vineyard at 470 meters above sea level in the town of Sondrio. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks and then aged for 12 months in barrels.
– Cà Morei, from a parcel of 2.5 hectares in DOCG Valtellina Superiore Valgella. Vineyard at 550 meters above sea level in the municipality of Teglio. 100% nebbiolo. Fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged for 12 months in barrels. Notes of kirsch and spices. 17 euros.
– Carterìa, a vineyard of 3 hectares in DOCG Valtellina Superiore Valgella, at an altitude of 500 meters. 100% Nebbiolo. Fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged for 12 months in barrels. Mentholated notes, black fruits. 17 euros.
– Ronco del Picchio, from the vineyard of San Gervasio, 2.5 hectares, at an altitude of 750 meters in the municipality of Teglio. DOCG Sforzato di Valtellina. Sforzato di Valtellina are wines made from raisined grapes. The drying process, the apassimento, is the same as that used for the production of Amarone della Valpolicella in Veneto. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks and then aging for 12 months in barrels. Still a baby, to be left in the cellar for at least 4 to 6 years. Notes of cedar and exotic woods. To be eaten with game or a well seasoned lamb stew. 26 euros.
Azienda Agricola Fay is one of the few producers of white wine in the area. Their sauvignon blanc is recognized as the best white wine of Valtellina. They have also recently planted other white varieties, including some Chardonnay. It will take at least a few years to see the results. After all, the neighboring region of Trentino-Alto Adige, or South Tyrol, is a great producer of white wines.
In a nutshell, Azienda Agricol Fay is a high quality family estate. Focusing on wines from single parcels, the estate emphasizes terroir and produces authentic wines that are accessible to all palates. This is my second experience with Valtellina’s nebbiolos… I was conquered. Don’t hesitate to come and visit them, Marco and Elena are very friendly and will be happy to make you discover their wines and even to take you to their vineyards.
Società Agricola Fay
Via Pila Caselli, 1
23036 San Giacomo di Teglio (Sondrio) – Italia
Tél.: +39 0342 786071
www.vinifay.it
info@vinifay.it
Leave a Reply