WINE PORTRAITS – vino2travel https://www.vino2travel.com Pour les passionnés de voyage, de vin et de bonne bouffe Thu, 11 Aug 2022 02:49:25 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.0.7 https://i0.wp.com/www.vino2travel.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/cropped-vino2travel_website.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 WINE PORTRAITS – vino2travel https://www.vino2travel.com 32 32 4 Monos: a Favorite Bodega in the Sierra de Gredos https://www.vino2travel.com/en/4-monos-a-favorite-bodega-in-the-sierra-de-gredos/ https://www.vino2travel.com/en/4-monos-a-favorite-bodega-in-the-sierra-de-gredos/#respond Fri, 06 May 2022 17:14:14 +0000 https://www.vino2travel.com/?p=3885 4 Monos is a winery located in Cadalso de los Vidrios, a small village an hour’s drive west of Madrid, in the mountainous region of Sierra de Gredos. Sierra de Gredos is a mountainous wine region, overlapping three designations of origin, DO Méntrida, DO Vinos de Madrid, and DO Castilla y León. Its unique concentration […]

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4 Monos is a winery located in Cadalso de los Vidrios, a small village an hour’s drive west of Madrid, in the mountainous region of Sierra de Gredos. Sierra de Gredos is a mountainous wine region, overlapping three designations of origin, DO Méntrida, DO Vinos de Madrid, and DO Castilla y León. Its unique concentration of old vines, mostly Garnacha, sandy and granite soils, make this unique terroir one of the most promising wine regions in Spain.

The project of 4 friends

4 Monos, at the beginning, is the project of 4 friends, Javier Garcia, Laura Robles, David Velasco and David Moreno. “4 Monos” literally means “four monkeys” in Spanish. It is an expression used to talk about people who have not yet accomplished anything, in short, who do not take themselves seriously. It says a lot about the modesty with which the four friends started their project.

I met Laura Robles during a trip to Madrid and I had the chance to visit the winery with her. Today, 4 Monos has four hectares of vineyards, all organically grown. They also source from several other growers who share the same philosophy (representing an additional 6 hectares of vines). The estate also uses some biodynamic farming practices.

A unique terroir

I was struck by the beauty of the vineyards I discovered, dotted with blooming olive and almond trees and surrounded by mountains. 4 Monos produced its first vintage in 2009. It was a harvest of albillo, a once-forgotten native white grape variety that is now regaining some of its glory. Unfortunately the harvest was a little late and 4 Monos decided to produce a dessert wine. The first commercialized vintage thus dates from 2010.

In 2016, the estate produced about 30,000 bottles, which is still a rather confidential production. The vineyards of 4 Monos are located in two municipalities: San Martín de Valdeiglesias and Cadalso de los Vidrios. San Martin is a rather hot area, with a Mediterranean climate, on rather coarse granitic and sandy soils, which give rustic wines, with rather high alcohol levels, but with a nice minerality. The old Grenache vines are 80 years old and are at an altitude of over 800 meters. Cadalso, on the other hand, at an even higher elevation, is a 60-year-old Grenache vineyard on much finer sandy soils, which produces more elegant wines, with more fruit. According to Laura, there is almost no soil here, almost only rock.

Albillo, an Underestimated White Grape Variety

4 Monos produces mainly red wine, but also grows a small amount of albillo (or albillo real), a white grape variety native to the region (0.6 hectares). It is believed to be a very old variety that survived the Arab occupation of the region, when most of the vines were pulled out to plant table grapes.

Albillo is very difficult to cultivate, with a very late maturity. The vine is very low, with many branches. It also offers very low yields with only 900 to 1,000 kilos of grapes per hectare. The production of albillo in 2015 did not exceed 900 bottles! It should not be confused with the albillo mayor, grown in the Ribera del Duero region, which is a completely different grape variety. The albillo often gives rather bold wines with little acidity. So it is not easy to get good results from this variety! 4 Monos also grows some carignan and syrah.

4 Monos Wines

4 Monos produces a white wine and 4 red wines. The white is obviously a 100% albillo, from vines that are almost 100 years old! The wine is aged in 3rd or 4th use oak barrels for about 10 months. It is a wine that smells of almonds and white flowers, with a very round mouthfeel, and very little acidity. I often tend to find wines that lack acidity a bit flat. And yet in the case of this wine, it is not disturbing. A rather atypical wine, which will take you out of your comfort zone, but which I personally liked very much. Very original and probably very versatile too. Laura suggested I try it with grilled vegetables.

4 Monos produces four red wines. A blend of Syrah and Grenache and a 100% Carignan in a natural style (less than 7g of sulfur), which I did not taste. The other two wines, La Danza del Viento and La Isilla are the two best wines, made from old Grenache vines. La Danza comes from the San Martín de Valdeiglesias vineyard and La Isilla from the Cadalso de Los Vidrios vineyard. Both wines are made from grapes that are fermented at low temperatures and then aged for 12-13 months in 300-500 liter barrels. I only tasted La Danza del Viento. Nice floral nose. Powerful wine with well marked tannins, while being endowed with a beautiful freshness. Still too young, however, it should be given time to beautifully evolve!

I loved the time I spent with Laura. You can tell that she and her partners are truly passionate and in love with the region. Their wines are excellent and they have only been making wine for a few years, so 4 Monos is definitely a producer to keep an eye on! As is the Sierra de Gredos region, with its almost century-old Grenache vines and its breathtaking landscapes!

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Marsovin : an iconic estate in Malta https://www.vino2travel.com/en/marsovin-an-iconic-estate-in-malta/ https://www.vino2travel.com/en/marsovin-an-iconic-estate-in-malta/#respond Mon, 06 Feb 2017 03:36:22 +0000 https://www.vino2travel.com/?p=4309 Founded in 1919 by Anthony Cassar, Marsovin is one of the oldest wine producers in Malta. With an annual production of almost two million bottles, it is today the main producer and exporter of wine in Malta, just ahead of the other major producer on the island, Delicata. Marsovin owns a little more than 20 […]

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Founded in 1919 by Anthony Cassar, Marsovin is one of the oldest wine producers in Malta. With an annual production of almost two million bottles, it is today the main producer and exporter of wine in Malta, just ahead of the other major producer on the island, Delicata.

Marsovin owns a little more than 20 hectares of vineyards which are spread over 5 vineyards on the island of Malta and Gozo, in the localities of Marsaxlokk, Wardija, Ghajn, Rihana and Ramla il-Hamra. Each vineyard has been selected to plant the most suitable grape varieties for the local soil and microclimate. The grapes from these 5 vineyards are used for the production of plot wines and blended in the best cuvées of the domain. Marsovin also buys grapes from about 300 Maltese winegrowers, representing about 200 hectares of vineyards. These grapes are destined for the production of entry-level and mid-range wines, marketed under other labels.

An exceptional cellar

The arrival at the cellar of Marsovin does not give any indication of the treasure that lies within its walls. The cellar is indeed located in the locality of Paola, the port area of the island of Malta. Inside the Marsovin cellar, originally built by the Order of the Knights of St. John in the 17th century, are stored over 100,000 bottles and 220 oak barrels. It is also where Cassar de Malta is produced, the only sparkling wine produced according to the traditional method in Malta (and surely one of the only ones in the whole Mediterranean!). A visit to the cellar is a must for any wine lover visiting the island of Malta. You can finish the visit by tasting some of the best vintages of the house.

The Wines

Marsovin produces a wide range of products, from table wines to plot wines and the only sparkling wine made by the traditional (or Champagne) method in Malta! In the 70’s, Marsovin was a pioneer in the production of single varietal wines on the island. In the 90s, he acquired one of his most prestigious vineyards, Marnisi, in Marsaxlokk, in the south of the island. From this vineyard, one of the largest in Malta (8.5 hectares), were born two of the wines that made the reputation of the estate and quickly became very successful in the export market: the Antonin and Marnisi vintages. Philip Tonna, the oenologist of Marsovin, studied oenology in Bordeaux. He lived there for a few years and worked at Chateau Belgrave before returning to Malta and working for Marsovin.

I will obviously not give you a complete review of the 43 wines produced by the house, but I had the chance to taste several vintages. Generally, I preferred the reds to the whites. Here is my review:

  • Cassar of Malta: a white of white in Malta? Well yes, it is possible. The chardonnay is harvested early enough to keep the grapes with enough acidity. The wine is aged on lees for a period varying between 12 and 24 months. An extra brut sparkling wine, only 6,000 bottles are produced each year. Nice citrus nose, nice freshness. Rather well made. The bubble falls a bit quickly though.
  • Caravaggio chenin blanc: I did not expect to drink chenin blanc in Malta! Blind, it didn’t have the characteristics… Wine without defect, but which will not make you vibrate either…
    Antonin: this wine comes from a vineyard on the island of Gozo, whose vines have a view of the beach 😉 100% Chardonnay, aged 3 months in new oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. Lacks a bit of acidity, which makes it a bit soft.
  • Marnisi: this Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot is an example of a wine with great ageing potential that the island can produce. The vines are about 20 years old. Nice nose of red fruits, nice tannic structure, made for ageing.
  • Primus: this blend of Syrah and Gellewza (the majority) is produced according to traditional processes to produce amarone. The grapes are dried before fermentation in new barrels. Gellewza is a red grape variety indigenous to the island of Malta, often used in blends. This Primus is a very beautiful wine, powerful, full-bodied, which would not have to be ashamed of the comparison with its Italian cousins… Amazing!
  • Guze Passito: this dessert wine is produced with Syrah grapes completely dried before fermentation. Not cheap, but very well made. It is the perfect accompaniment to a dark chocolate dessert..

Visiting Marsovin

The visit of the cellar, followed by a tasting, is organized on request.

Marsovin
Phone: (356) 21 824 918
info@marsovinwinery.com
marsovin.com

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Meridiana Wine Estate https://www.vino2travel.com/en/meridiana-wine-estate-2/ https://www.vino2travel.com/en/meridiana-wine-estate-2/#respond Mon, 23 Jan 2017 03:31:20 +0000 https://www.vino2travel.com/?p=4311 Meridiana Wine Estate is a pioneer in the cultivation of international grape varieties on the island of Malta. In 1985, the founder of the estate, Mark Miceli-Farrugia, met the famous Bordeaux oenologist Denis Dubourdieu. From this important meeting, Mr. Miceli-Farrugia became convinced that it is possible to produce high quality wine in Maltese soil. In […]

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Meridiana Wine Estate is a pioneer in the cultivation of international grape varieties on the island of Malta. In 1985, the founder of the estate, Mark Miceli-Farrugia, met the famous Bordeaux oenologist Denis Dubourdieu. From this important meeting, Mr. Miceli-Farrugia became convinced that it is possible to produce high quality wine in Maltese soil. In 1989, he bought a 19-hectare plot of land (a former military airport during the Second World War) in the locality of Ta’ Qali and decided to plant several grape varieties for experimentation.

Convinced that it would be able to produce quality wine if it raised the necessary capital to invest in modern, state-of-the-art facilities, in 1992 the winery joined forces with the famous Antinori family, one of the largest producers in Tuscany (today the Antinori family is the sole owner).

Focusing on international grape varieties

Between 1994 and 1995, nearly 91,000 vines were planted (17 ha). The grape varieties chosen were all international varieties such as chardonnay (8 ha), cabernet sauvignon (3.5 ha), merlot (3 ha) and syrah (2.5 ha). The winery was built in 1996, the date of the first commercialized vintage. It is equipped with temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and used French oak barrels from Antinori in Italy (as well as some Hungarian oak barrels). In 2006, the estate planted an additional 1.5 hectares of vermentino in the St. Paul’s Bay area. The vermentino, of Sardinian origin, proved to be particularly well adapted to the warm climate of Malta. Little by little, Meridiana is pulling out some Syrah and replanting it with Muscat, which he uses to produce a dessert wine.

The vast majority of the production is sold on the local market. Meridiana’s wines can be found in more than 400 restaurants on the island, so if you don’t have time to stop by the winery, it will be easy to taste their wines. Only a few cases are exported (Japan, Russia, Denmark, Belgium) and for a few private clients (Germany, Singapore, Hong Kong, Switzerland and the United States).

Not easy to make wine in Malta

The climate in Malta is Mediterranean. Temperatures can be very high during the growing season and droughts are recurrent. The estate is located only a few kilometers from the sea (like most of the vineyards on the island). The vineyards are surrounded by a few hills, including the majestic city of Mdina. The soils are calcareous, with a small amount of blue clay.

When I ask Karl Chetcuti, the general manager of the winery, what is the main challenge for the winemaker in Malta. Without hesitation, he answers the climate. The lack of rain combined with the excessive heat makes irrigation mandatory. During the harvest, Meridiana is forced to rent refrigerated trucks so that the grapes are not damaged by the heat.

Operating costs are also higher elsewhere. Bottles, labels, corks, machinery, barrels, everything is imported! It is also not easy to find qualified workers to work in the vineyard (the Maltese do not want to work in such conditions!).

Another problem for the estate is the lack of space. Meridiana Wine Estate would like to expand, but planting new vines is a big challenge on this small island. The estate would like to replant 5 or 6 hectares of vines. Finding that amount of land in one plot is a daunting task in Malta.

The Wines

Today Meridiana Wine Estate produces about 140,000 bottles of wine per year. Since 2008, all wines have been granted the DOK Malta designation of origin. The whites are not aged in barrels in order to produce light wines, adapted to the climate. As for the reds, the fermentation is very short, again to seek freshness and reasonable alcohol levels. The wine is aged in used oak barrels (2nd and 3rd use). Almost all the wines are named after a Phoenician god, in homage to the people who brought the first vines to the island.

The estate currently produces 10 vintages: 5 reds, 3 whites, a rosé and a dessert wine:

Fenici white : blend of chardonnay, vermentino and viognier. Not tasted

Astarte: 100% vermentino. Tropical fruit notes, slight salinity in the mouth and a slightly bitter finish. Very well made. About 11 euros.

Isis: 100% chardonnay. Nice nose with lemon and floral notes. On the palate, we find almond and green apple. A perfect wine to enjoy on a sunny terrace with a freshly caught grilled fish! Approximately 14 euros. For the record, Meridiana tried to produce a chardonnay aged in barrels, too expensive to produce and not adapted to the local gastronomy, so they decided to stick to a chardo without wood.

Fenici rosé: a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah. Nice salmon color, strawberry notes. Very dry. Rather well made. 9 euros.

Fenici red: blend of merlot and syrah. 40% aged in barrels, 60% in stainless steel tanks for a period of 3-4 months. Not tasted.

Melqart: blend of cabernet-sauvignon and merlot. Aged 8-10 months in barrels. About 15 euros.

Bel: 100% syrah, 8-10 months in barrel. Not tasted.

Nexus: 100 % merlot. Aged 8 to 10 months in barrel. Light red color, cherry nose. In the mouth, it is remarkably fresh. The tannins are silky. My favorite. It reminded me surprisingly of a northern Italian wine. About 18 euros.

Celcius: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 15 to 18 months of barrel aging. About 25 euros. Not tasted.

Baltis : 100 % muscatel. Dessert wine. About 23 euros per half bottle.

To Visit the Estate

Meridiana Wine Estate is open to the public. It also organizes private tours upon request.

Meridiana Wine Estate
Ta’ Qali ATD 4000 Malta
+35 621 413 550
meridiana.com.mt
info@meridiana.com.mt

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Domaine du Nival: a Quebec winery to be followed closely https://www.vino2travel.com/en/domaine-du-nival-a-quebec-winery-to-be-followed-closely/ https://www.vino2travel.com/en/domaine-du-nival-a-quebec-winery-to-be-followed-closely/#respond Sun, 18 Dec 2016 17:30:23 +0000 https://www.vino2travel.com/?p=4278 Domaine du Nival, which released its first vintages in 2015, was created by Denis and Matthieu Beauchemin. Trained as a geological engineer, Denis’ passion for wine began in 2004, the year he helped his winemaker brother with the harvest (his brother owns Vignoble et Domaine Beauchemin in Yamachiche). In 2007, Denis shares with his son […]

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Domaine du Nival, which released its first vintages in 2015, was created by Denis and Matthieu Beauchemin. Trained as a geological engineer, Denis’ passion for wine began in 2004, the year he helped his winemaker brother with the harvest (his brother owns Vignoble et Domaine Beauchemin in Yamachiche). In 2007, Denis shares with his son Matthieu the desire to have his own vineyard one day, an idea that Matthieu supports with enthusiasm. Mathieu has a master’s degree in business administration and is also passionate about geography and travel.

A unique vineyard in Quebec

In 2008, the Beauchemins planted a few grape varieties in Saint-François du Lac to see how they would acclimate. They also met many winemakers, including Mike and Véronique Hupin of Les Pervenches Vineyard, pioneers in the use of vitis vinifera grapes in Quebec. In 2011, they bought 6 hectares of land in Saint-Louis on the Yamaska River. In the following years, they planted 2.7 hectares of vines, including vidal, pinot noir, gamaret, petite arvine and albariño, never before seen in Quebec! The soils on which the vineyard is planted come from an ancient landslide. They are composed of sandy loam and clay loam.

From experimentation to the first vintage

Denis and Matthieu Beauchemin made their first harvest in 2014, during which they produced experimental red and white wines (no more than 300 bottles each!). In 2015, they began their first “official” harvest, which will result in the first commercialized vintages of the estate in 2016.

Denis and Mathieu took a training course with Jérémie d’Hauteville of OenoQuebec, a Montreal-based wine consulting firm.

The main challenge for the Beauchemins is the conditions under which the vines are grown, including the negative effects of humidity and insects. And of course, there is also the winter. The vineyard must be completely covered with geotextile fabric in order to survive the harsh Quebec winter. More than 13 kilometers of geotextiles are installed, a colossal task! Another important aspect is that the estate is cultivated according to biodynamic principles.

The Wines

Currently, the estate produces three vintages: two whites and one red. All wines are vinified with indigenous yeasts. The use of sulfites is reduced to a minimum.

  • Bouche Bée 2015: 100 % vidal. Fermented then aged on fine lees in stainless steel tanks. 800 bottles produced. 20 $.
  • Matière à Discussion 2015: 100% vidal. Malolactic fermentation then aged for 5 months in 5th to 6th use oak barrels. 3,000 bottles produced. 20$.
  • Les Entêtés 2015: a blend of pinot noir (90%) and gamaret (10%). The pinot noir is fermented and then aged in both tank and barrel. The Gamaret, only in stainless steel tanks (malolactic fermentation for both). 1,500 bottles produced. 22,60$

Bad news, there are no more bottles available! The domain was a victim of its success. So be patient if you want to taste the next vintage that will be released in late spring 2017. Next year, the winery also plans to produce a natural sparkling wine and a rosé. He also plans to harvest a small amount of albariño, perhaps enough to produce some 200 bottles in 2018. Within a few years, the winery plans to reach a production of 15,000 bottles per year.

Visit Domaine du Nival

The estate is open to the public since summer 2015! I cannot recommend enough that you visit Denis and Mathieu. The two friendly winemakers will be delighted to share their passion with you and let you discover their wines. But you will have to be patient and wait for next spring 😉 In terms of landscape, and having already visited a few vineyards in the Belle Province, this is for me the most beautiful vineyard in Quebec! At the top of the hill where the albariño and the petite arvine are planted, the panorama on the Yamaska river is superb!

Domaine du Nival
424 rang Bord de l’eau ouest
Saint-Louis (Québec) J0G 1K0
450-518-4818
nival.ca
info@nival.ca

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Domaine Bergeville: great sparkling wines made in Quebec https://www.vino2travel.com/en/domaine-bergeville-great-sparkling-wines-made-in-quebec/ https://www.vino2travel.com/en/domaine-bergeville-great-sparkling-wines-made-in-quebec/#respond Fri, 18 Nov 2016 04:13:35 +0000 https://www.vino2travel.com/?p=4281 Domaine Bergeville is the only winery in Quebec that produces exclusively sparkling wines. Created by Marc Théberge and Eve Rainville a decade ago, the estate is located in Hatley in the Eastern Townships of Quebec. Genesis of the estate Eve and Marc met at the end of high school and studied together at the University […]

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Domaine Bergeville is the only winery in Quebec that produces exclusively sparkling wines. Created by Marc Théberge and Eve Rainville a decade ago, the estate is located in Hatley in the Eastern Townships of Quebec.

Genesis of the estate

Eve and Marc met at the end of high school and studied together at the University of British Columbia (she in mathematics, he in electronic engineering). It was during this time that they had the crazy idea of one day owning their own vineyard. They saved for 13 years to raise the capital needed for their project. They also gave it a lot of thought by attending training courses and travelling extensively. They visited Champagne, California, Virginia, Spain, Italy and even Australia and New Zealand. They met many winemakers with whom they were able to exchange. They even fell in love with the south of England, but unfortunately the access to land was too expensive.

Appropriate soils and climate

Marc and Eve returned to the Belle Province with the firm intention of finding the most suitable soils and climate to produce superior quality sparkling wines in Quebec. Ideally, they wanted to find a place that would be close to a tourist hub so that they could sell their future products at the property and in the good restaurants of the area. They chose to settle in Hatley in the Eastern Townships. They found the soils they were looking for, namely soils with a lot of limestone and a climate that is a little cooler than in other Quebec wine regions and therefore adapted to the production of sparkling wines.

domaine-bergeville-6338

“Summers like those in Quebec produce very acidic grapes. This acidity is sought after and is welcome in the production of quality sparkling wines. In general, we harvest about two weeks before everyone else in Quebec” – Marc Théberge, co-owner of Domaine Bergeville

Which grape varieties for a Quebec sparkling wine?

Between 2009 and 2013, Marc and Eve planted 8,000 vines on nearly two hectares. When they started, there was no history of producing sparkling wines from rustic grape varieties (vitis riparia). So they planted 13 different grape varieties, all of which were adapted to the Quebec climate. The Saint-Pépin, Frontenac, Marquette, Radisson, and Sainte-Croix do not require any winter protection and can withstand temperatures down to -35 C! Only the white acadie grape variety requires protection from the winter cold (the vines are stubbed and then covered with geotextile cloths). After experimentation, they pulled out the grape varieties that gave less good results in order to keep only those that proved to be the most promising for the production of sparkling wines.

Today, Domaine Bergeville has 11,000 vines, spread over approximately three hectares. All its sparkling wines are certified organic (Ecocert Canada). The vineyard and the grapes are certified biodynamic (Demeter).

The Wines

Through its wines, Domaine Bergeville wants to highlight the typical aromas of Quebec grape varieties. All grapes are first vinified separately before being blended. Three cuvées are produced, a white, a rosé, and a red, all of which are made using the traditional method (also known as the méthode champenoise). The estate produces approximately 60% white sparkling wine, 30% rosé, and 10% red.

To produce their white sparkling wine, they blend white Acadie, which brings freshness and minerality, with white Saint-Pépin, which brings roundness and balance, and white Frontenac, characterized by a very high acidity. According to Marc, Saint-Pépin is probably the most interesting grape variety for making good sparkling wine. However, it is so low in production that it makes no commercial sense to make a specific cuvée. The sparkling rosé wine is a blend of radisson and frontenac gris and blanc, the red, of marquette, frontenac noir and sainte-croix.

I tasted all three cuvées during a brief visit to the domain this summer. I really liked the white sparkling wine. I must say that I was very surprised to see such a high level of quality for a sparkling wine made with rustic grapes. Blind, I challenge you to differentiate it from an excellent crémant! The rosé is very lively, with a crisper acidity. As for the red, you will like it… or not… I must admit that a red sparkling wine is not my cup of tea. Red sparkling wines are rather a rarity. You can find them in Australia with sparkling shiraz or in Italy with Lambrusco. Nevertheless, it remains for me a confusing product. It is however very original and probably interesting to match with some dishes.  The white will be perfect as an aperitif or with oysters, the red will require a meat and the rosé a fruit dessert. The white sells for $30, the rosé for $32 and the red for $34.

Future Projects

Marc told me that he would like to plant some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. He has his own weather station and over the past 8 years, he has recorded about the same kind of weather as Champagne during the growing season. Winter is obviously a different story! The main challenge for the winemaker is obviously the climate with the winter frost and the big temperature changes. But the most delicate episode remains without any doubt the spring frost, often at the time when the vine is extremely fragile. To remedy this, the domain has installed a wind tower (before, they used to make fires in the vineyard!!!).

Marc’s dream is to one day achieve recognition as a Quebec sparkling wine appellation. According to him, the province has a huge potential to produce high quality sparkling wines. Marc would also like to produce an unfined brut. He thinks that with a little longer aging (30 months), he should be able to do so. For information, his white contains 2 grams of sugar per, the rosé 4 grams and the red 6 grams.

Visit the Domaine Bergeville

I can’t recommend enough that you visit the domain. The quality is there and the potential is there to produce even better bubbles in the future (the domain is still young, just like the vines). So come and visit us the next time you are in the Eastern Townships! The winery is open from June to October from Wednesday to Sunday, as well as on holidays, between 1 and 5 pm. The rest of the year, visits are by appointment only.

Domaine Bergeville
1030, chemin Sherbrooke
Canton de Hatley, Québec J0B 2C0
Phone: (819) 842-1026
domainebergeville.ca

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Jiménez-Landi: World-Class Grenache Wines https://www.vino2travel.com/en/jimenez-landi-world-class-grenache-wines/ https://www.vino2travel.com/en/jimenez-landi-world-class-grenache-wines/#respond Wed, 31 Aug 2016 02:24:09 +0000 https://www.vino2travel.com/?p=4293 During a stay in Spain, I had the chance to visit Bodegas Jiménez – Landi, probably one of the best producers of grenache in the Iberian Peninsula. Jiménez – Landi is a family-owned winery located in the village of Méntrida in the appellation of origin that bears the same name. The creation of the winery […]

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During a stay in Spain, I had the chance to visit Bodegas Jiménez – Landi, probably one of the best producers of grenache in the Iberian Peninsula. Jiménez – Landi is a family-owned winery located in the village of Méntrida in the appellation of origin that bears the same name. The creation of the winery dates back to the early 60s. However, it was not until 2004 that José Benavides Jiménez-Landi, who runs the winery, decided to produce and market quality wines based on respect for the terroir and featuring Grenache.

Méntrida, an underrated appellation

The D.O. Méntrida is an appellation located in the province of Castilla-La-Mancha, west of Madrid and north of Toledo. The wine tradition in the region goes back as far as the 12th century! Mostly red wine is produced here. While Méntrida is one of the oldest wine producing regions in Spain, according to José, it failed to adapt to market trends 20-25 years ago, when consumers began to turn to higher quality wines. Even today, the focus is on volume and the cooperatives continue to produce almost exclusively bulk wine. While Méntrida produces 50 million tons of grapes each year, only about 600,000 bottles are bottled!

Jiménez-Landi is an exception in the appellation, as are the few other producers who have chosen to focus on quality (there are only 25 wineries in the D.O., of which only 7 bottle their wines!) The success is there, since today you can find Méntrida wines on the menus of Madrid’s restaurants, which was unthinkable 15 years ago.

The Garnacha from Gredos

Bodegas Jiménez – Landi grows mostly Grenache, but also Syrah and some Cabernet Sauvignon. In order to promote the potential of the region’s old Grenache vines and the unique soils in which they grow, the Garnacha de Gredos Association (of which the winery is a member) was created in 2003. The geographical area of Sierra de Gredos includes several vineyards spread around Toledo (D.O. Méntrida), Madrid (D.O. Vinos de Madrid) and Ávila (Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla y León).

As for the Syrah, it has acclimated very well to the terroir of Méntrida. According to José, it gives very different profiles from the typical dense and colorful Syrahs of Spain. The Syrah of Méntrida is more on the freshness, the elegance, like the wines of the Rhone.

Two Vineyards, Two Different Terroirs

Bodegas Jiménez – Landi has nearly 50 acres of vines divided into two distinct vineyards. 37 acres are located in the vicinity of Méntrida. The Grenache and Syrah vines are between 12 and 40 years old. The soils are sandy and granitic and the altitude varies between 550 and 650 meters. The sand has the characteristic of storing a lot of heat during the day, but losing it quickly after dark. The soils are very poor in organic matter, which gives the grapes a lot of acidity. This allows a more natural elaboration, without too much manipulation. The climate is continental with long, cold winters and hot, dry summers. Rainfall does not exceed 500 millimeters per year.

The remaining 12 acres belonging to Jiménez – Landi are old Grenache vines around the village of Real de San Vicente. The age of the vines varies between 40 and 80 years and the altitude between 750 and 850 meters. The soils also contain sand, but there are also large stones. These stones accumulate heat during the day and release it at night, resulting in wines with a more opulent, dense and complex profile. The continental climate is very marked by the Sierra de Gredos. Winters are cold and dry, summers are hot. The annual rainfall reaches almost 900 millimeters and is concentrated in spring and autumn.

Jimenez-Landi10“Our vineyards of Méntrida and Real de San Vincente produce wines with very different profiles. What gives our wines their uniqueness is not the winemaking or the ageing, but the soil, the altitude and the parcel from which they come. Our wish is to make singular, unique wines. When we elaborate our wines, we seek above all balance, freshness, elegance and complexity. The most important thing is to produce a product with a strong identity and the same quality standard every year” – José Benavides Jiménez-Landi, winegrower in Méntrida

Jiménez-Landi’s Philosophy

Jiménez – Landi elaborates its wines according to the different characteristics of the terroirs in which its vines grow. José’s philosophy is similar to that of Burgundy with the notion of “crus”. José participated in his first harvest at the age of 12. Since then, he has participated in all the successive harvests. Although he later trained at the Politécnica de Madrid, he believes that the best training a winegrower can have is to travel.

The vineyard is worked in organic agriculture. In the cellar, this translates into the use of indigenous yeasts, no chemicals, and the least interventionist philosophy possible. Each parcel is vinified separately. The wines are all aged in French oak barrels from 500 to 3,000 liters.

“If you want to make a wine with personality and passion, you have to submit to the rules of nature. This is a fundamental rule. Nature is constantly changing, we have hot years, cold years, rainy years, dry years, so you have to know how to adapt. Some years you will age your wines for 12 months, others up to 15 and some only 7”, adds José.

From vineyard work to harvesting to winemaking, everything is done by hand. “You can make very good wine by producing 100,000 to 150,000 bottles, which you can’t do at 500,000 bottles or more. Conversely, if you’re artisanal and you’re only making 15,000 bottles, you can hardly make a living as a winemaker. With a production of 100,000 bottles per year, the size of the estate seems to me to be quite adequate and sustainable.

“I like the way the French make and understand wine. In Spain, what usually makes the difference in a wine is the length of time it is aged in barrel. We talk about crianza, reserva, gran reserva, etc. I find this a bit obsolete. For me, wine should not be defined by the length of time it is aged in barrels, if not from the vine! The vine is what gives a wine its uniqueness. One can follow exactly the same recipe all over the world to make wine, using the same grape variety, the same barrel, etc., but what makes the difference is that each vine is unique and represents a typical terroir”.

The Wines

Bodegas Jiménez – Landi produces only four wines. All of them are of a very high quality:

  • Bajondillo: a blend of 80% Grenache with 10% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, from the vineyards of Méntrida. Age of the vines between 15 and 40 years. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks and then aged for 7 months in stainless steel tanks and French oak barrels with a capacity of 3,000 liters. The Bajondillo is the entry-level wine of the estate. It is a superb thirst-quenching wine, fresh, balanced and full of fruit. Nose on the violet. A real treat and an exceptional value for money at only 7 euros!!! (recommended price in Spain). We would drink it every day!
  • Sotorrondero: a blend of 70% Grenache with 30% Syrah. The grenache comes from 45 year old vines from the Real de San Vicente vineyard. The Syrah comes from 12 year old vines from the Méntrida vineyard. Maceration with 30% of the grapes not destemmed, then fermentation and aging in French oak barrels of 500 and 3,000 liters for 9 months. Very good wine. We find in this vintage more substance and complexity. A greater bitterness also in the finish. Recommended price: 13 euros
  • Piélago: 100% Grenache from the vineyard of Real de San Vicente. The age of the vines varies between 40 and 70 years. Fermentation and aging in French oak barrels of 500 and 3,000 liters for a period of 14 months. A Grenache as I like them, elegant, with an exceptional freshness. My favorite! 23 euros.
  • Ataulfos: 100% Grenache from a single plot of old vines (80 years!!!) in the village of Real de San Vicente. Fermented and aged in French oak barrels of 500 and 3,000 liters for a period of 14 months. This is the most prestigious vintage of the estate. Here, the terroir expresses itself wonderfully. A wine of great complexity with a silky tannic structure, made for ageing. We find the elegance and the freshness of all the vintages of the domain. Long finish with balsamic notes. Very beautiful. 45 euros.

To Visit or Contact

Av. La Solana, 39 – 45930 Méntrida
Phone: + 34 91 817 82 13
info@jimenezlandi.com
jimenezlandi.com

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Enric Soler: stunning white wines made of xarel-lo https://www.vino2travel.com/en/enric-soler-stunning-white-wines-made-of-xarel-lo/ https://www.vino2travel.com/en/enric-soler-stunning-white-wines-made-of-xarel-lo/#respond Sun, 31 Jul 2016 18:10:03 +0000 https://www.vino2travel.com/?p=4290 Enric Soler is known for making some of the best white wines in Catalonia. Produced in very small quantities (7-8,000 bottles per year), his wines are critically acclaimed. During a recent visit to Barcelona, I visited Enric to hear about his project. I had the chance to discover his beautiful white wines. When his grandfather […]

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Enric Soler is known for making some of the best white wines in Catalonia. Produced in very small quantities (7-8,000 bottles per year), his wines are critically acclaimed. During a recent visit to Barcelona, I visited Enric to hear about his project. I had the chance to discover his beautiful white wines.

When his grandfather passed away in 2003, Enric Soler inherited a small xarel-lo vineyard in the village of Sabanells en Font Rubi in the Pénédés appellation. This professor of sommellerie in Barcelona decided to start producing wines.

The land on which Enric’s vineyard is located was an airport used by the revolutionary troops during the Spanish Civil War. At the end of the war in 1945, vines were replanted. The old xarel-lo vines that Enric inherited from his grandfather are therefore about 70 years old.

Converting the vineyard to biodynamic farming

When he took over the family vineyard of 0.89 hectares, the vines were programmed to produce a lot of grapes and the soil was saturated with pesticides. In 2004, Enric Soler decided to convert the vineyard to biodynamics. Enric refutes the marketing aspect that leads many estates to convert to biodynamics. If he made this choice, it is above all to readapt his vines to a less intensive agriculture. Moreover, during difficult years, he noticed that his vineyard suffered less than those of his neighbors, because the vine was better adapted to the climatic hazards.

In 2011, Enric Soler planted an additional hectare of xarel-lo on clay soils at 400 meters above sea level. Everyone told him that xarel-ho would not grow well at such an altitude. Nevertheless, he planted it and succeeded brilliantly in proving the contrary. All the grapes from this young vineyard are used to make his Espanyalluchs cuvée.

Un seul cépage en vedette : le xarel-lo

The Catalan region of Pénédès is a plateau enclosed between the mountains of Montserrat to the north, the Cordillera prelitoral, the Sierra Litoral and the Mediterranean Sea. It is, in surface, the largest denomination of Catalonia. Its altitude varies between 250 and 800 meters. The climate is Mediterranean with 500 to 600 millimeters of rainfall per year..

The Pénédès is best known for the production of cava, the famous Spanish sparkling wine. Of the 28,000 hectares of vineyards in the appellation, 22,000 are dedicated to the production of cava. Enric’s almost two hectares of vines appear almost anecdotal in a region where the average property has between 20 and 30 hectares of vines..

Enric Soler7“The interesting thing about xarel-lo is that, depending on the producer and the soil in which it grows, it can give very different wines” – Enric Soler, winegrower

Xarel-lo is usually blended with other grape varieties such as Parrellada, Macabeu and sometimes Chardonnay and Malvasia. Xarel-lo is increasingly being vinified on its own for the production of still white wines.

When worked at low yields, Xarel-Lo can give exceptional expressions of fruit and minerality. It often develops aromas of white flowers, almond, citrus and quince. It is also well suited to aging in oak barrels..

The Wines

In the cellar, Enric Soler works in the most natural way possible. All the wines are aged in barrels for 8 to 9 months. However, Enric uses barrels of different ages to give very different profiles to his wines. His goal is to make the terroir speak for itself in each of his wines.

Enric produces three 100% xarel-lo wines:

  • Improvisació: the entry level of the estate. Fermented in concrete eggs and then aged in oak barrels (one, two, three and four years of use). No stirring. Enric advises to drink the Improvisació with oriental or Asian food. Its refreshing acidity will make it the ideal companion for sushi or ceviche. 23 euros.
  • Espenyalluchs: made only from the young vines planted by Enric. Fermented and aged in oak barrels of 4 and 5 years of use. Nice nose of honey and white flowers. Nice acidity. In the mouth, superb minerality and long finish. A very very nice wine. When you consider that the vines are barely 5 years old…. Blind, you wouldn’t think of a Mediterranean wine. What freshness! To drink alone as an aperitif just to enjoy! Or to accompany whatever you want, because the wine is very versatile! A wine of great purity! 35 euros.
  • Nun: the most recognized cuvee of the domain. Its name is a reference to ancient Egypt, where nun means “the beginning of everything”. Fermentation and maturation take place in French oak barrels (50% new barrels, 50% one year old barrels). Made from old vines and using indigenous yeasts. The nun is undoubtedly the most “Burgundian” vintage of Enric. Very nice nose on butter and toast. An almost creamy wine in the mouth. A great wine, elegant and complex. Enough to make several great Burgundy wines pale with envy! Bravo! 40 euros.

I have excellent memories of my visit to Enric. An ultra-sympathetic person and a passionate winemaker. And above all, white wines of incredible purity and finesse. Thank you again Enric for your warm welcome! And I look forward to coming back to visit you soon!

To contact Enric Soler:
Masia Cal Raspallet
08736 Font-rubí
Phone:+34 607 262 779
enricsoler.cat
info@enricsoler.cat

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Hush Heath, a vineyard and orchard in Kent https://www.vino2travel.com/en/hush-heath-a-vineyard-and-orchard-in-kent/ https://www.vino2travel.com/en/hush-heath-a-vineyard-and-orchard-in-kent/#respond Sat, 23 Jul 2016 23:10:00 +0000 https://www.vino2travel.com/?p=4288 Hush Heath Estate is an estate in Kent, England, whose origins date back to 1503 with the construction of Hush Heath Manor by the Balfour-Lynn’s family. The manor house, which still exists today, overlooks 120 hectares of land, including a vineyard, an orchard and a magnificent old oak forest. In 2002, vines were planted and […]

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Hush Heath Estate is an estate in Kent, England, whose origins date back to 1503 with the construction of Hush Heath Manor by the Balfour-Lynn’s family. The manor house, which still exists today, overlooks 120 hectares of land, including a vineyard, an orchard and a magnificent old oak forest.

In 2002, vines were planted and in 2004, the first vintage of sparkling wine was produced. In 2010, Hush Heath invested in state-of-the-art facilities to produce the highest quality wine and cider. The goal is to produce wines that can compete with and surpass the best Champagne houses. The stainless steel tanks used for fermentation are imported from Champagne, the bottling line from Italy and the barrels from Bourgogne.

I recently visited the estate while in London. The property is about an hour and a half drive from the center of the British capital. At Hush Heath, they believe that the key to making good wine and cider is the quality of the grapes and apples. That’s why the estate pays meticulous attention to the cultivation of its fruit. The estate only processes fruit from the estate. All apples and grapes are harvested by hand.

Hush Heath now has 15 hectares of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, primarily for sparkling wine production. A few additional grape varieties have been planted experimentally, including pinot blanc and arbois. The vines grow on limestone soils similar to Champagne, which give acidity and minerality to the wines.

The climate is the main challenge to grow grapes of optimal quality. If the vineyard benefits from a rather favorable microclimate, climatic incidents such as frost or violent rains are far from rare, especially in spring during the delicate period of budburst (development of the buds). The domain has its own weather station that sends weather information every 15 minutes. A few nights a year, if a frost alert is issued, everyone gets active and each vine is warmed up with candles! Especially the chardonnay vines which are the most sensitive to frost.

Hush Heath has been growing apples for a very long time. The Kent apple varieties, such as cox, bramley and edgemont russet, were destined for sale in the best London markets. The 8 hectare orchard is mainly used for the production of cider. Only a small part of the apples is transformed into juice.

A growing reputation

Balfour Rosé, Hush Heath’s signature wine, is offered on the British Airways first class wine list and the famous Orient Express train! It was also one of the wines served at the London Olympics.

Hush Heath produces 4 sparkling wines, one rosé, one white and one red:

  • Balfour brut rosé: 22,000 bottles per year. 52% chardonnay, 40% pinot noir and 8% pinot meunier. Notes of strawberry and peach. Vibrant acidity, great elegance. 35.99 GBP
    Balfour Leslie’s Reserve: 10,000 bottles per year. 55% pinot noir, 40% chardonnay, and 8% pinot meunier. Very dry, with notes of brioche and red apple. Ideal for an aperitif. 24.99 GBP
  • Balfour Blanc de Blancs: Only 100 cases produced for this first 100% Chardonnay vintage. Not tasted. 39 GBP
  • Balfour 1503 Sparkling Pinot Noir: a 100% pinot noir, traditional method. Untasted. 29.99 GBP
    Nannette’s Rosé: 75% pinot noir and pinot meunier, 25% chardonnay. Untasted. 15 GBP
  • Skye’s Chardonnay: low temperature fermentation in stainless steel tanks, then aged on lees. “The English answer to Chablis” according to Hush Heath. Lemon notes, good acidity. Not bad, but for the moment we continue to drink Chablis, especially at this price 😉 16,5 GBP
  • Manor Pinot Noir: lightly aged in new American oak barrels, but you can’t feel the wood aging at all. Notes of cherry, raspberry and leather. Floral on the palate. Picnic wine, but not cheap either. 23 GBP

The estate also produces three ciders and an apple juice. The ciders are fermented in the same stainless steel tanks as the wines, and undergo a second fermentation like the sparkling wines. Strawberry and blackcurrant juice is added before bottling for the first cider, and nettle macerations for the second. The ciders are simply exceptional. Selection of the best quality apples, hand harvesting and sorting, advanced techniques for fermentation. Nothing is left to chance. Unfortunately, excellence has a price! 13,50 GBP per bottle of cider!

Of course, I can’t recommend a visit to the estate enough. A few tours are organized each week or on request. On a sunny day, take the opportunity to have a picnic on the spot, the place is superb and invites to relax. You can also take a walk in the beautiful oak forest of the domain.

Hush Heath Estate
Five Oak Lane
Staplehurst, Kent, TN12 0HT
Phone: 01622 832794
hushheath.com
info@hushheath.com

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